It’s 6:00am and Enzo Bellagamba is opening up his bar called Fiamma, right in front of the Rialto fish market in Venice. Wedsnesday is special because Enzo has some fish to buy—today he serves up sushi.

Slip out of the tourist craze on the promenade and pop on the Vaporetto over to Dorsoduro where Venetians live and escape the madness of San Marco and the Bridge of Sighs. Wind your way to Enoteca Ai Artisti for the most down to earth deli selection of fresh homemade pastas and wine pairings.